Bottega di Perugia: Sandwich Art in Perugia’s Historic Center
Panini buonissimi (the best sandwiches). Personale gentilissimo (very kind staff). Consigliatissimo (highly recommended). These are a few superlatives culled from thousands of 5-star reviews of La Bottega di Perugia. This tiny Italian sandwich joint in Piazza Morlacchi is a cult favorite and a beloved, local hangout in the historic center of Perugia. If you visit during a lull in the action, you might find an empty stool—one of three seats. Sit down at the mescita (the little counter). Exchange a few words with the welcoming owners, Gerardo (Gerry) and Cristian. Then watch their show of Italian street food artistry. Each sandwich or tagliere (cheese and charcuterie board) is crafted in plain view. Enjoy your selection with a glass of wine or beer, sourced weekly from local cellars and breweries.
Piazza Morlacchi becomes a natural extension of the shop in spring and summer. Crowds gather outside with sandwiches, cheese boards, wine, and beer—especially on Friday and Saturday evenings. It’s a place where friends meet up for due chiacchiere (to have a chat). And to plan the evening’s activities, which always include more food and drink.
According to Gerry, the name bottega (a craftsman or artist’s workshop) was a deliberate choice. Allow me to explain. Italians take their deli meats and cheeses very seriously. We are not talking about mass-produced foods pumped full of additives and artificial ingredients. We are talking about raw materials whose lineage can be traced. The products of small, family-owned farms with a generations-long history. Digging further into the reviews, it’s not an exaggeration to call these lovingly prepared, simple delicacies, a bit of an art form. Strepitosi (sensational, amazing). Freschissimi (the freshest). Pannini artigianali (hand-crafted sandwiches).
The inspiration for this hugely popular spot was somewhat unplanned. “We started very spontaneously, simply following our passion for wine and cured meats,” said Gerry. “I’m from San Martino in Campo, a small village on the outskirts of Perugia, located in the countryside, in what I consider a strategic place, amidst fields of vineyards, vegetables, and grains.” In other words, this man knows the difference between quality deli cuts and the stuff pumped with flavor enhancers, emulsifiers, preservatives, stabilizers, and binders. One taste of their sandwiches and you’ll know the difference too.
Adding to the creativity, the sandwiches all have fanciful names in Perugian dialect—each more playful than the next. Names like Vergongnete (shame on you), a vegetarian sandwich, Guasto (angry or hot), a sandwich with salami, peppers, and tabasco sauce, Turzulo (dim-witted), a combo of ciauscolo sausage, pecorino cheese, and sundried tomatoes, and Smilzo (skinny) a classic with mozzarella and tomatoes. The names capture certain human characteristics, perceived flaws, and physical attributes. They are just for fun and not a judgement of one’s gustatory preferences!
If you believe in the science of sandwich making (Google it), you’ll be in good hands with these two. Gerry and Cristian both studied sciences. And they seem to have perfected a delightful formula. Good food and drink, good humor, a welcoming vibe, with a little music on the side.
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